All posts by briansmaller

I live in rural New Zealand and work for an international IT company. My interests are many but mainly involve rural life, politics, history and wargaming - not necessarily in that order.

Aslan Khtukhao-class Clan Transport

I did this deck plan many years ago. Based on the Art of Jesse de Graff and a plan in the GURPS Traveller Book.

Aslan Clan Transport (Traveller)

I have updated the deck plan to a newer look. Hope you like it.

Ore-Crawler from Gamelords 1984 Adventure “Duneraiders”

My first Traveller deck plan in quite a while. This is from the 1984 adventure by Gamelords titled “Duneraiders” by the prolific Traveller writer and artist William H. Keith Jnr. I love his artwork – it speaks Traveller to me in so many ways.

Ore-Crawlers are large (approx 1200tons) designed to sweep up surface ore and refine minerals and metals from said ore. It has a powerful fusion engine that powers the drives and refinery equipment, and also has a limited grav assist to help negotiate soft sand and so forth. The vehicle is sealed and can operate in vacuum and hostile environments. These are common industrial machines and are manufactured under license across the Imperium.

For more information you will need to find a copy of the adventure Duneraiders. Where…I have no idea. Ebay, Noble Knight Games…..there must be some out there somewhere.

Full Size Deckplans


Battlefield Accessories 28mm ACW Gun Carriages.

If you have ever brought a box of Perry 28mm ACW Artillery you will know that you end up with a swag of spare barrels. There is a 12llb Napoleon, a 3″ Ordinance Rifle, a 12lb Howitzer and a 10lb Parrot on each sprue so at a minimum you will have nine barrels left over after making whatever artillery pieces you wanted.

This guy in Australia, Battlefield Accessories solves the problem of what to do with those spare barrels with these handy-dandy laser cut gun carriages.

The set consists of enough parts to assemble three more carriages. The wheels and some other parts are cut from a stiff card, which the trail and crosspiece are cut from 3mm mdf. Wheels are three parts – the rim, spokes and the hub. All parts fit well and easily glue together. With the card parts, be careful when cutting them away from the ‘sprue’.

Assembly was simple. The only thing missing is an elevation screw. I used a piece of wire, the sort of thing most modellers have in their bits box somewhere I am sure.

In the pictures below you can see that they match up perfectly with a Perry gun. Battlefield Accessories also included a sampler sheet with some other offerings. – a 28mm outhouse, a scifi type cargo container and a house – 15mm, I guess.

At this time of postage is not cheap. They almost doubled the price of these for me to get them from Australia to New Zealand but postage these days is what it is.

I will probably use these mostly for limbers. But I got enough to make nine more guns so I have options.

Get some of these if you want to increase your artillery park without having to buy extra plastic sets.

Roy Martin’s Homemade ACW Artillery Pieces 1/72nd scale

My friend Roy Martin from Wellington, New Zealand provided me with this excellent tutorial on making home-made ACW artillery pieces. Roy is a 1/72nd scale gamer and plays a lot of ACW and Napoleonics in this scale. Here is a link to a previous wargame report supplied by Roy.

Anyway, without further ado I present Roy’s ACW Artillery Tutorial.

Tutorial

Scratch Building an ACW 12 pounder ‘Napoleon’ Cannon in 20mm scale

By Roy Martin

After having had to make my own cannons for reasons I won’t go into, and having shared the photos of the end results with selected individuals who I thought would be interested, it was suggested that I create a tutorial on the making of them, so here goes nothing.

As both sides used these cannon as their ‘workhorse’, they are an easy option, with the only difference being that the Union used ones with barrel flares and the Confederate ones didn’t.

Materials Required:

A length of 19mm Dia. Conduit

Wire Paper Clips                 

Matchsticks

A length of 5mm Sq. Balsa                                

A length of 1mm dowel (the rod from an incense stick)

Some 1mm card                                                 

A length of 5mm plastic rod (an old knitting needle)

Some 2mm ball bearings (12 Gauge Shot is perfect)                                  

PVA Glue

The Wheels:

Start by cutting the length of conduit into 2mm rings either with a fine bladed hacksaw or if you are lucky enough, a modelling bench saw.  Then sand the surfaces smooth with a bit of old 60 grit paper– this can be hard on the fingers.

Next, take some wire paper clips and straighten them into a single length, which I do by using a pair of small pliers.  These will be the spokes, of which there are 4 lengths making an 8 spoked wheel.  To add any more spokes to the wheel is impractical, as it bulks out the hub area to an unmanageable and unsightly degree.  The first one should be cut to fit snugly inside the rim (in this case 14mm) and pressed into place (I use the end of my short needle nose pliers) with a drop of PVA to secure it.  The remaining lengths are cut about 1mm longer to allow for the slight bend required so that the subsequent spokes will surmount previous ones with the ends still fitting within the rim, and fitted in the same manner by pressing them into place.  The easiest way of applying the bend is simply to hold the wire in a pair of pliers at the half way point and apply a bit of pressure with your finger as it bends very easily.   The amount of bend you will learn by trial and error, but it isn’t much (see below).   Remember that they need to be a tight fit so when you cut them, if necessary be generous – as they say, there is a taking off tool, but not a putting on one.   You will need to install them from alternate sides of the wheel, so as to balance the fitting process and the look of the finished wheel.

When this is completed (and you have stopped cursing me) the centre of the spokes can be filled with modelling ‘bog’, or I prefer to just add PVA drop by drop letting each drop dry before adding the next.  When all this is done then the wheels can be glued to the axle, being a 20mm length of matchstick.

The Carriage:

This is the easy bit as they are a single trail unit.  Start with a 5mm Sq. length of Balsa (or similar) cut to 40mm.  This need to be trimmed down to 3mm for height and slightly rounded for the end on the ground to create the ‘skid’.  From about 12mm of the other end, take a short (5mm) length of 1mm dowel make a small hole (a thin nail will do if using Balsa) and press through the trail to sit proud on the top side – this will be the adjusting screw under the barrel.  At about 8mm from the ‘skid’ end, take about 22mm of the same 1mm dowel and once again make a guide hole and  push through the trail at an acute angle so that it will poke out rearwards by about 18mm – this will be the ‘laying lever’ which both armies left permanently attached during combat.

The Barrel:

This is easier than it first appears.  First acquire a length of 5mm plastic rod (don’t just steal one of your wife or mums knitting needles as you will quickly learn a new meaning to ‘pain and suffering’).

I then mark a 25mm length and clamp the rod in a vice (using something to ensure the rest of the rod isn’t damaged by the vice teeth e.g. some thin bits of timber), with what will be the filed end closest to the vice allowing a bit of space for working the file.  I use a small half round 2nd cut file by preference (but it’s up to you).  You then have to slowly file a taper onto the rod leaving the far end at 5mm and the other tapered down to 3mm.  This is where you have to take it easy, as it is SO easy to over file one spot, as you have to file a bit; turn the rod and file another bit, and so on, until you are happy with the result, or are once again cursing me.  In the case of the union barrels, you need to allow a few mm at the end for the barrel flare (this is why I use the half round file) which should be about 4mm Dia.  Once you are happy (well sort of) then carefully cut the barrel off with a fine bladed hack saw (and try not to lose it on the floor amongst the rubbish!).

From here, all that is required is to carefully sand or file the ‘breech’ end of the barrel to a rounded state, leaving a small flat area at the end.  The final touch for the barrel is the addition of a 2mm ball bearing (or a piece of 12 gauge shot if you have it) glued to the breech end as the finial.

Construction:

As if you really need to be told this.  Glue the axle and wheel assembly to the underside of the head of the carriage trail.  Paint the carriage and barrel at this point.  Glue the barrel in position with the breach end just past the ‘adjusting screw’.

Accessories:

The water bucket is simply a 5mm offcut from an old piece of 2mm model sprue.

The ammo box is just made from 1mm card, and is 10mm (w) x 8mm (d) x 5mm (h).  It has a packed out base and holds 6 x 2mm ‘cannon balls’ (or 12 gauge shot), with a lid 12mm x 8mm.

If you would like to download a PDF you can do so here.

Then Something Nice Happens…

A month or so back I was contacted on social media by a guy who I last saw in the 80s when he was a young teen and he used to come to the Manawatu Miniature Strategists Society club meets. He said that back in those days I was one of his inspirations to paint and collect wargame miniatures. I was really touched and it was great catching up and seeing where life had lead us.

He is quite a prolific collector/painter now. He saw I was doing ACW and sent me this box of Sash and Saber (and some Perry and Foundry) miniatures. I have not gone through it all but looks enough figures for a complete Union brigade, command and a regiment of mounted and dismounted cavalry. The box of Perry ACW cavalry is in a blue plastic – I have never seen them molded in that colour plastic before. I am guessing that is an old production run.

So now I am going through the lead mountain to find stuff I can send him as he is currently doing an Italian army for Black Powder Napoleonics. I know I have three or four boxes of Perry and Victrix French infantry, some command figures and some cavalry – a good start I hope.

It was interesting that a few Sundays at wargame club in the 80s had such an impact on someone’s life. I am still somewhat at a loss for words.

Thanks David. You are a top bastard.

Santa came early this year.

Look what arrived in the post today. To be honest, this was the second largest order I have ever done from overseas. I usually get bits and bobs. I get nervous forking out large sums of money and waiting on an order to arrive – but arrive it did. An ACW Confederate cavalry brigade including horse holders and dismounted versions. Lots of guns, limbers and limber horses. Dismounted Union cavalry and horse holders – a brigade worth. Lots of generals, mounted cavalry command and various command sets. Also bulked out my Anglo-Zulu Wars – limbers, command, mounted and dismounted infantry and Frontier horse. Everything was well packaged and not so much as a dent on a box.

“Not a Toy” Ha! Who are they kidding.

On the Workbench – 6th Nov 2020.

What I am currently working on. What are you working on at the moment?

A regiment of Federal infantry and a gun/crew undercoated and first blobs of paint applied (Perry Minis). Also, more artillery assembled and sorting out horses for more six horse limbers – found another 27 of those old Hinchliffe horses in the Woolshed in a box. Lead Mountains can be a great thing to have at times.. Also a bunch of Federal generals (Perry and Adventure Miniatures). found another 27 of those old Hinchliffe horses in the Woolshed in a box. Lead Mountains can be a great thing to have at times.

14th Brooklyn – The Red Legged Devils (Adventure Miniatures)

“Hold On Boys! Here come those red legged devils again!” Confederate General Thomas J. “Stonewall” Jackson, July 21, 1861, First Bull Run.

I got these great figures from Nathan at Elite Miniatures Australia. They are from the Adventure Miniatures range. This is an excellent range – if they were more readily available.

They were originally Mark Fenlon Miniatures and at some stage were resurrected as Adventure Miniatures. I have seen pics of other codes that were produced (mainly on Nathan’s Lonely Gamer’s Blog) but do not seem available at the moment – regular infantry, more cavalry etc.

The figures are large 28s. I probably wouldn’t put them in with other figures in the same unit but I have these chaps alongside Perry Plastic zouaves and they look fine. I suspect they would make Foundry figures look like hobbits.

Flags are the ones from one of the Perry set sheets. These sat for a while – I ordered them just before Ausssie and NZ went into lockdown and they took the best part of two months to arrive – thanks to Australia and NZ Post and barely any aircraft flying with cargo.

Monday Music: Paper Lace “Billy Don’t be a hero”

Painting Soldier Blues at the moment so…….


I had this on a Paper Lace LP back in the 70s until my bloody older brother repossessed his record collection that he had left at home for years while overseas. That is when I learned that possession being 9/10ths of the law didn’t really hold up. Hope you still have it Chris 🙂